Phase transitions of monoglyceride emulsifier systems and pearlescent effects in cosmetic creams studied by 13C NMR spectroscopy and DSC

The present work investigates the phase transitions of monoglyceride emulsifier systems and pearlescent effects in cosmetic creams using 13C-NMR spectroscopy and DSC. The four phases of monoglyceride emulsifier systems – the coagel, gel phase, liquid-crystalline lamellar phase, and cubic phase – can be characterized in creams at appropriate temperatures by NMR spectroscopy. The phase transition temperatures were determined by DSC. Cross polarization (13C-CP)-magic angle spinning (MAS) measurements confirmed that the formation of the coagel is responsible for the pearlescence of creams. It could be shown that the proportions of monoglyceryl laurate and monoglyceryl myristate in the emulsifier system influence the phase transitions and the intensity of the pearlescence of creams. Furthermore, the coagel forms directly from the liquid-crystalline lamellar phase without transition through the gel phase if the cream is at a temperature higher than that of gel phase formation. These insights into the monoglyceride-emulsifier system of creams make it possible to more closely study the pearlescent effect of the coagel. Especially, the amount of emulsifier system in the coagel can be quantified. It could be shown that for a typical pearlescent cream more than 27% of the emulsifier system must be found in the coagel in order for pearlescence to be detectable optically. Moreover, the increase in the intensity of pearlescence over time after fabrication of a cream correlated with the increase in the amount of emulsifier system in the coagel. This ripening process can take up to approximately 15 months.