Modélisation du courant sagittal induit par les vagues au-dessus des systèmes barre/baïne de la côte aquitaine (France)

The spectral wave driver SWAN is coupled with the time- and depth-averaged (2DH) coastal area model MORPHODYN. This coupled model is used to simulate the rip current induced by breaking waves over ridge and runnel systems on the French Aquitanian Coast. Simulations lead to a description of the rip current characteristics and the physical mechanisms leading to its formation. The rip current is controlled by the local bathymetry, the tide level and offshore wave conditions. The presence of this rip current is favoured by shore-normal incidence and long-period swells. During low-energy conditions, the maximum rip current velocity occurs at mid-tide. For higher energy conditions, the maximum rip velocity sweeps to high tide. The residual forcing notion enables to explain and to highlight this tidal modulation and the rip current formation mechanisms. To cite this article: B. Castelle, P. Bonneton, C. R. Geoscience 338 (2006).