The shoreface-connected ridges along the central Dutch coast — part 1: field observations

The hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes on the Dutch inner-shelf were studied on the basis of short- and medium-term (days, month) field experiments during fair-weather and storm conditions. The primary goal of this study was to identify the mechanisms that may be responsible for the formation and maintenance of the shoreface-connected ridges in the study area. The hydrodynamic field observations do not consistently support existing theoretical models explaining the formation of such ridges. Instead, the water motion appears to be dominated by wind- and density-driven effects. A review of literature indicates that other field studies also fail to observe the flow response expected from theory. Sediment transport during fair-weather is very episodic, with bed load transport slightly dominant over suspended load transport. The sediment transport processes during storms are dominated by the mean fluxes, with waves acting as a stirring mechanism. The contribution of wave-oscillatory fluxes cannot be neglected and may be directed with and against the waves. Long-wave fluxes are present, but very small.