Title of article :
Rip Current at Pangandaran Coastal Waters, West Java
Author/Authors :
Kusmanto, Edi Lembaga Ilmu Pengetahuan Indonesia - Pusat Penelitian Oseanografi, Indonesia , Setyawan, Wahyu Budi Lembaga Ilmu Pengetahuan Indonesia - Pusat Penelitian Oseanografi, Indonesia
Abstract :
Pangandaran coastal waters is coastal tourism site that situated at the calmest part of Parigi Bay coastal waters. The favorable coastal area condition has made the coastal zone growth to be favorite coastal tourism site. The study site was coastal segment where rip currents frequently occur. This research was conducted by visual observation of rip currents and coastal morphology analysis approach, bathymetry survey, wave conditions, the speed and direction of currents, and turbidity. Results of this study indicate that rip currents are common phenomena at the Parigi Bay coastal area, and the currents frequently occur at several parts of the Pangandaran coastal zone, which are supposed to be safe. The rip currents could be identified visually. Swell with periods of 6.57 to 8.91 s propagating from the Indian Ocean in nearly normal direction to the coastline of Pangandaran could be the cause of rip currents. During field work of this study, it was recorded the existing of six rip currents with speeds in the range of 0,8–1 m.s^-1. Obtained backscatterance records indicated that the recorded rip currents transport sediment load seaward from swash zone. Bathymetry data records of the study area showed an existing of undulating submarine morphology with axis lines normal to coastline. However, position of the rip current occurrence had no good correlation with the undulating morphology. The facts indicate that no control of seabed morphology on rip current occurrence.
Keywords :
rip current , swell , sandy beach , coastal waters , Pangandaran
Journal title :
ILMU KELAUTAN: Indonesian Journal of Marine Sciences (IJMS)
Journal title :
ILMU KELAUTAN: Indonesian Journal of Marine Sciences (IJMS)