Abstract :
We aimed to quantify the sources of variation contributing to the production and quality
of cashmere produced in five districts in Osh and Naryn provinces of Kyrgyzstan. In early
spring 2008 mid-side cashmere samples were taken from 719 cashmere adult females,
and 41 cashmere adult males and castrates. Samples came from 53 villages and a total of
156 farmers’ flocks. For 91 goats from 33 farmers in 13 villages of two districts that had
been sampled earlier, cashmere was combed from the goat at the time of a second visit
(end of April 2008) when the cashmere would normally be harvested. Following standard
cashmere objective measurement, data were examined using general linear modelling to
quantify the effects of potential determinants. The mean fibre diameter (MFD) of cashmere
differed between provinces (Osh 15.7 m, Naryn 16.7 m; P = 4.4×10−20). About 42%
of the cashmere was <16 m, 48% was 16.0–18.0 m and 9.5% was >18.0 m. Most of the
cashmere samples were coloured (81%), with 63% black and 19% white. The percentage
of cashmere samples that were white declined as MFD increased (26% < 14 m to 11% of
>18 m). The primary determinants of cashmere MFD of individual goats were age of goat
(range 1.46 m, P=1.8×10−12) and farm (range 6.5 m, P=1.7×10−14). The lesser effects
detected for sex (range 0.9 m, P = 0.026) and colour of cashmere (range 1.8 m, P = 0.023)
were based on small sample sizes and are unreliable. Age of goat had important affects
on fibre diameter variation (up to 1.7% in coefficient of variation, P = 5.8×10−6) and fibre
curvature (2.5–5◦/mm, P=2.1×10−4). By far the greatest effect on fibre curvaturewas cashmereMFD(
P = 3.0×10−104) with a smaller effect of sex (about 5◦/mm, P = 3.0×10−6). Village
effects were detected on fibre diameter variability (range 4.5% in coefficient of variation,
P = 0.027) and fibre curvature (range 15◦/mm, P=1.6×10−7). There was a strong negative
association between increasing MFD and declining fibre curvature (−5.11±0.181◦/mm per
1 m; P=7.1×10−121; r2 = 0.51). Average combed cashmere weight was 164 g, the clean
cashmere content was 0.661 and median clean cashmere production was 110 g per goat
(range 60–351 g). Combed cashmere production increased with altitude of the village, probably
related to different moulting times as spring temperatures warmed up later in higher
altitude villages up to 3200 masl. Measurements of combed cashmere MFD were coarser
than the mid-side samples taken earlier in the year. There are farmers and cashmere goats
in the sampled districts of Kyrgyzstan which produce the finest qualities of commercial
cashmere as the vastmajority of cashmere is fine, has lowvariation in fibre diameter and hasfibre crimping (curvature) typical of Chinese and Mongolian cashmere. There is substantial
scope to increase the production and commercial value of cashmere produced by Kyrgyz
goats. In particular, some villages and farmers need to change their buck selection practices
if they wish to produce acceptable cashmere. Farmers should separate their finer and white
cashmere prior to sale.
