• DocumentCode
    1419383
  • Title

    Assessing the Suitability of Video Imaging for Studying the Dynamics of Nearshore Sandbars in Tideless Beaches

  • Author

    Ribas, Francesca ; Ojeda, Elena ; Price, Timothy D. ; Guillén, Jorge

  • Author_Institution
    Inst. de Cienc. del Mar, Consejo Super. de Investig. Cientificas, Barcelona, Spain
  • Volume
    48
  • Issue
    6
  • fYear
    2010
  • fDate
    6/1/2010 12:00:00 AM
  • Firstpage
    2482
  • Lastpage
    2497
  • Abstract
    Nearshore sandbars, an important natural defense mechanism of the beaches, can be monitored using shore-based video systems. Before studying bar dynamics with video images, we must establish the relationship between the real bar positions and the videoed bar positions (detected by the preferential wave breaking on the shallows). This analysis becomes essential in the two studied tideless beaches of Barcelona due to the critical differences with respect to the sites studied previously. Bogatell beach is terraced (without a trough) in more than 50% of the profiles. There, the videoed barlines are a good proxy of the terrace edge position. In La Barceloneta beach, with dominance of barred profiles, the videoed barlines better represent the bar crest position. On average, the obtained distances between real and videoed bar positions ??r are 10-15 m, with the videoed barlines located shoreward. Changes in the bathymetric profile shape and the root-mean-squared wave height H rms induce a variability of ??r of 16 m in La Barceloneta and 13 m in Bogatell. This apparent variability masks the real changes in bar position and should preferably be reduced before further analysis. As a highly significant correlation between ??r and H rms is detected in the two beaches, the proposed reduction method consists of sampling at a specific range of H rms. This diminishes the variability by 10% to 14 m in La Barceloneta and 11 m in Bogatell. This paper confirms the suitability of using video systems for monitoring bars and terraces in the Barcelona beaches.
  • Keywords
    bathymetry; geomorphology; geophysical image processing; ocean waves; oceanographic regions; oceanographic techniques; remote sensing; video signal processing; Bogatell beach; La Barceloneta beach; Spain; bar crest position; bar dynamics; bathymetric profile shape; image analysis; natural defense mechanism; nearshore sandbars; remote sensing; root-mean-squared wave height; sea coast; shore-based video systems; surface waves; terrace edge position; tideless beaches; video images; wave breaking; Geophysics; image analysis; remote sensing; sea coast; surface waves;
  • fLanguage
    English
  • Journal_Title
    Geoscience and Remote Sensing, IEEE Transactions on
  • Publisher
    ieee
  • ISSN
    0196-2892
  • Type

    jour

  • DOI
    10.1109/TGRS.2009.2039576
  • Filename
    5415649