Title :
Rip currents and rip channel morphodynamics under quasi-steady conditions
Author :
Simeonov, Julian ; Holland, Todd ; Spansel, Steven
Author_Institution :
Stennis Space Center, Naval Res. Lab., Stennis Space Center, MS, USA
Abstract :
We developed a realistic test case for morphodynamic predictions of short-term bathymetry evolution associated with quasi-steady rip currents. Assuming stationary forcing, predictions made by the coupled wave-hydrodynamic-morphodynamic model Delft3D are compared with surf zone morphological change inferred from quarterly in-situ bathymetric surveys. The model gives plausible two-dimensional hydrodynamic predictions with offshore currents being strongest in the rip channels. When the default wave-induced bed-load transport is included the model predicts accretion on the bar similar to the observations but the predicted sandbar amplitude grows unrealistically. Both with and without wave-induced transport, the model underestimates the erosion in the rip channels.
Keywords :
bathymetry; erosion; oceanographic regions; seafloor phenomena; sediments; Delft3D; accretion; quasisteady condition; rip channel morphodynamics; rip currents; sandbar; short term bathymetry evolution; stationary forcing; surf zone morphological change; Calibration; Geology; Hydrodynamics; Laboratories; Predictive models; Remote sensing; Sea measurements; Sediments; Storms; Testing;
Conference_Titel :
OCEANS 2009, MTS/IEEE Biloxi - Marine Technology for Our Future: Global and Local Challenges
Conference_Location :
Biloxi, MS
Print_ISBN :
978-1-4244-4960-6
Electronic_ISBN :
978-0-933957-38-1