• DocumentCode
    1616759
  • Title

    Rip currents and rip channel morphodynamics under quasi-steady conditions

  • Author

    Simeonov, Julian ; Holland, Todd ; Spansel, Steven

  • Author_Institution
    Stennis Space Center, Naval Res. Lab., Stennis Space Center, MS, USA
  • fYear
    2009
  • Firstpage
    1
  • Lastpage
    7
  • Abstract
    We developed a realistic test case for morphodynamic predictions of short-term bathymetry evolution associated with quasi-steady rip currents. Assuming stationary forcing, predictions made by the coupled wave-hydrodynamic-morphodynamic model Delft3D are compared with surf zone morphological change inferred from quarterly in-situ bathymetric surveys. The model gives plausible two-dimensional hydrodynamic predictions with offshore currents being strongest in the rip channels. When the default wave-induced bed-load transport is included the model predicts accretion on the bar similar to the observations but the predicted sandbar amplitude grows unrealistically. Both with and without wave-induced transport, the model underestimates the erosion in the rip channels.
  • Keywords
    bathymetry; erosion; oceanographic regions; seafloor phenomena; sediments; Delft3D; accretion; quasisteady condition; rip channel morphodynamics; rip currents; sandbar; short term bathymetry evolution; stationary forcing; surf zone morphological change; Calibration; Geology; Hydrodynamics; Laboratories; Predictive models; Remote sensing; Sea measurements; Sediments; Storms; Testing;
  • fLanguage
    English
  • Publisher
    ieee
  • Conference_Titel
    OCEANS 2009, MTS/IEEE Biloxi - Marine Technology for Our Future: Global and Local Challenges
  • Conference_Location
    Biloxi, MS
  • Print_ISBN
    978-1-4244-4960-6
  • Electronic_ISBN
    978-0-933957-38-1
  • Type

    conf

  • Filename
    5422163