Measuring wave height and direction using upward-looking ADCPs

The authors present wave directional spectra obtained using a conventional broadband acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) and compare their observations with data collected using the Field Research Facility´s pressure gauge array at Duck North Carolina. Spectral computations are based on the maximum likelihood method. Comparisons include frequency-height spectra, directional spectra and computed parameters including significant height, peak period and peak direction. The authors conclude that the ADCP data compare well with the observations by the pressure gauge array