Ocean Wave Prediction Using Large-Scale Phase-Resolved Computations

We apply direct, large-scale, phase-resolved computations to study the evolution of nonlinear ocean wavefields. Starting from a nonlinear wavefield that matches a prescribed wave spectrum, a highly-efficient wave simulation tool is applied to simulate the long-time nonlinear evolution of this wavefield using high-performance computers and to obtain its statistical properties such as directional spreading function, spectral slope, and exceeding probability of crest and trough heights as the wavefield reaches a quasi-stationary state. The characteristics of computational results are compared well with field measurements in spite of the different wave conditions in simulations and field observations. The importance of capturing nonlinear wave interactions in ocean wavefield predictions is illustrated.