Horizontal ADCP measurements of waves and currents in the very nearshore

Author

de Schipper, M.A. ; de Zeeuw, R.C. ; de Vries, S. ; Stive, M.J.F. ; Terwindt, J.

Author_Institution

Sect. of Coastal Eng., Delft Univ. of Technol., Delft, Netherlands

fYear

2011

fDate

20-23 March 2011

Firstpage

159

Lastpage

166

Abstract

Hydrodynamic measurements of the very nearshore are valuable, but often difficult to obtain. Large amounts of bubbles due to wave breaking and complex installation complicate the use of acoustic instruments in this zone. This paper presents measurements obtained by a horizontal looking ADCP (hADCP) installed in the very nearshore to measure waves and wave currents. The observations are separated into the various timescales ranging from high frequency orbital motion to very low frequency oscillations and mean flow. Results reveal the presence of significant very low frequency oscillations and the potential of a hADCP to capture wave transformation in the nearshore.

Keywords

bubbles; hydrodynamics; ocean waves; oceanographic techniques; sonar; underwater sound; acoustic instrument; bubble; high frequency orbital motion; horizontal ADCP measurement; hydrodynamic measurement; very low frequency oscillation; very nearshore current; very nearshore wave; wave breaking; wave transformation; Current measurement; Extraterrestrial measurements; Instruments; Sea measurements; Tides; Transducers; Velocity measurement; ACDP; surfzone; waves;

fLanguage

English

Publisher

ieee

Conference_Titel

Current, Waves and Turbulence Measurements (CWTM), 2011 IEEE/OES 10th

Conference_Location

Monterey, CA

Print_ISBN

978-1-4244-9285-5

Type

conf

DOI

10.1109/CWTM.2011.5759545

Filename

5759545