The performance of ADCP-derived directional wave spectra and comparison with other independent measurements

The authors have shown that a bottom-mounted, upward looking ADCP provides a robust means of determining wave height and direction in coastal-depth waters. When equipped with a pressure sensor, the ADCP yields three independent estimates of the non-directional wave height spectrum, and hence provides an internal consistency check on the performance of the instrument. Directional spectra obtained from the ADCP tend to be sharper than those from point measurements, such as PUV triplets or directional wave buoys and, because of the greater number of degrees of freedom in the measurement, the ADCP can resolve complex multi-directional wave distributions